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88-91 Civic & CRX Technical Forums => How-To's & FAQ's => Topic started by: Thundercat on December 24, 2010, 11:00:35 pm

Title: Assembling fittings on to braided lines
Post by: Thundercat on December 24, 2010, 11:00:35 pm
(http://coleshotrods.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/braided-steel-11-300x199.jpg)

The component s of a braided-steel hose are the hose, the socket and the insert (or nipple). The two aluminum pieces clamp the hose end for a strong connectio n. These component s are reusable, as long as the they arenít damaged.

(http://coleshotrods.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/braided-steel-21-300x199.jpg)

One of the keys to easy and leak-proof connects is a clean and straight cut. Wrap the hose tightly with duct tape where youíll make the cut. This will keep the braided-steel from fraying. I really recommend using a 3-inch, high-speed cut-off wheel to cut the hose. Make the cut as straight as possible. Point the end of the hose toward the ground and tap it to get as much of the debris out after making the cut.

(http://coleshotrods.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/braided-steel-31-300x199.jpg)

Remove the duct tape. If there are any strands of wire that are sticking out, remove them with side cutters. Push the socket over the hose end. Be careful that the braided-steel doesnít snag on the socket and start working its way apart. If you made a clean cut, this usually wonít happen.

(http://coleshotrods.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/braided-steel-41-300x199.jpg)

Keep pushing and twisting the socket down the hose until the end of the hose reaches the bottom of the threads inside the socket. Then back the socket off the end of the hose until there is approxima tely a 1/16-inch gap between the end of the hose and the bottom of the threads.

(http://coleshotrods.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/braided-steel-51-300x199.jpg)

Use a dab of engine oil on the threads and the nipple part of the insert. Donít use a silicone-based lube as these will usually cause the rubber to swell on contact, making the installat ion very difficult and compromis ing the assembly. There are specialty lubes available for this, but engine oil works well and you probably have some.

(http://coleshotrods.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/braided-steel-61-300x199.jpg)

The hose may push out of the socket while you tighten the two pieces of the fitting together. Earlís recommend s marking the hose at the base of the socket. I have a different method Iíll show in photos number eight. An 1/8-inch of movement is okay, but any more than that, and you should take apart the hose assembly and try it again.

(http://coleshotrods.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/braided-steel-71-300x199.jpg)

The final assembly is much easier if you use a vice. You can use two wrenches, but it is more difficult, and it is less likely that the hose end will install properly. We use a shop rag to cushion the aluminum hose end in the vice jaws. There are special inserts you can buy for a vice that further protect the hose ends (and special aluminum wrenches for that matter), but youíd have to assembly a lot of hose ends to make these worth purchasin g. Earlís recommend s that you clamp the insert in a vice and rotate the hose and socket onto the insert threads.

(http://coleshotrods.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/braided-steel-81-300x199.jpg)

I have a slight variation from Earlís recommend ations on the final assembly. I find it easy to cross-thread the fittings trying to rotate the hose and socket. And if the hose is long enough, this process just isnít possible. Instead, I gently clamp the socket in the vice as shown. If the vice is too tight, it will make the socket out of round. I then thread the insert in place using a wrench. I also hold my thumb nail tightly against the hose at the base of the socket. Doing this, I can tell if the hose is pushing too far out of the socket as I tighten the assembly. I find this quicker than marking the hose, and I donít have to clean permanent marker off the hose when Iím finished.

(http://coleshotrods.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/braided-steel-91.jpg)

The biggest question is when do I stop tightenin g? The insert and the socket shouldnít actually bottom out on each other. On smaller-diameter hoses (-6 and -8) the gap should be about 1/16-inch. With larger hoses (-10 and -12) the gap may be around 1/8-inch. Iíve assembled dozens of hoses in various sizes and never had a leak at one of the hose end. With both ends of the hose assembled, use compresse d air to clean debris from the inside of the hose.
Title: Re: Assembling fittings on to braided lines
Post by: Bus Driver J on December 26, 2010, 06:46:02 pm
When pushing the insert into the socket, I like to use a scoket (the tool kind) of the correct size. It gives you better control and force. And lube EVERYTHIN G. Hose (inside and out) socket and nipple. It helps for sure.




BTW, didnt Dare post something like thing a while back?
Title: Re: Assembling fittings on to braided lines
Post by: Thundercat on December 26, 2010, 06:54:29 pm
yea his was a video thou...th is just has pictures of each step
Title: Re: Assembling fittings on to braided lines
Post by: rbwdriven on December 27, 2010, 07:04:16 am
 lube EVERYTHIN G. including the  nipple. It helps for sure.

[/quote]

Jay's told me stories about you like the nipple lubed.